History repeats


The pictures here were taken two weeks ago, on the Parvis de Notre Dame. The fire jugglers were part of a city-wide festival called the Nuit Blanche, which is a sponsored night of arts events across the city. All sorts of quirky theatre, dance, music, film and food-tasting events happened all over Paris. Unfortunately I had to get a night train to go home and couldn't stay to see most of it.
The reason I wanted to write about these fire jugglers is because it's a tradition which has gone on in the same place for hundreds of years. At least back into medieval times. The opening chapters of Notre Dame de Paris by Victor Hugo tell of the gypsies, who were egyptian immigrants, scorned with the same right-wing conservatism which greets the 'arabs' in France today, gathering in front of the cathedral to perform shows. They would have performing animals, dances, beggars performing 'freak show' acts, and of course the famous carnivals, in front of this church. But rather than being some sort of holier-than-thou tourist attraction, Notre Dame was a refuge for the lowest of the low. Society's underdogs who had nowhere else to go, who were automatically presumed to be criminals - and mostly were - but who were always welcome in this stony, draughty building. They could even take refuge from the king's army there, as Esmeralda does in Hugo's novel.
Standing on this square and watching these guys with punk haircuts and combat trousers breathe fire and juggle for the crowds somehow brought out how weird it is that human beings can be doing the same thing for over 900 years - gathering in front of a cathedral and entertaining each other with fire tricks - without this ever becoming institutionalised. Unlike religious tradition or readings of canonical literature, there is no aura of veneration, no artificial sense that these lowlifes are doing something particularly special or even traditional, as they entertain the crowds. It's a real tradition.
I guess it's closer to what Nietszche called 'Dyonysian art'. The art which consists of celebrating life, sexuality and collective madness, rather than venerating one's masters. The art which is found at the bottom of a glass of beer rather than collecting dust in a museum. If only reading a blog came anything close to a 'dyonysian' artistic experience...

